the wonderful world of food (and the relationships they procure)

i have finally consumed enough gelato and cornetti (croissants) to be able to write extensively on the sweets culture here, which is wonderful (although it did take me an entire week...). first: gelato, or italian ice cream. many of these places are advertised as gelaterias and are very consentrated around tourist areas. when you order (always uno poco gelato...very rich and sweet!) it will usually cost between 1,50 and 2 euro and they will try to put it in a cone, so gelato in a cup must be specified. if they come from a gelateria, the consistecy will vary but is most definitely a lot more icy than american ice cream. my favorite one had a mix of creamy and icy and came from a place about half way between my apartment and the tiber river (a 10 minute or so walk). it was baci flavored, after the perugina "baci" or kiss. it's the original chocolate kiss, the one with a hazelnut on top. however, the real winner came from a cremeria near the pantheon, which was more like american ice cream (although 100% full fat!) i ordered noccioli, or hazelnute, and it was the thickest, most delicious ice cream i have ever had! other flavors tried are tiramisu and coffee (the iciest but great flavor). however, much is left to conquer as most gelaterias have an enormous selection, including things like tartuffo (chocolate + whiskey), several different fruity flavors, and 3-5 different combinations of hazelnut & chocolate (bacio, nutella, etc.) pistachio also looks enticing, as does any of the chocolate flavors- they are almost black in color. luckily, i am here for a month and as the small sizes are really small (coldstone will most definitely scare me when i return...but i'm sure after five minutes of being in the store i'll get over it), i have no problem doing the research it takes to be able to inform you all of the delightful tastes and textures.

now, the cornetto, or croissant. they all look relatively the same (what you would think a basic croissant looks like), and some are covered in powdered sugar (boo) or an orange-flavored glaze (woo!) the basic kinds are cioccolato (beware...more to come), crema (usually an almond flavor) and naturale (but don't think this one isn't sweet as well- these are the ones with the glazes). as far as cioccolato goes, the key to deliciousness is the color. don't walk into any old bar/pasticierria and ask for one if you haven't seen it displayed yet. some that i've tasted have had a thick, nutella-like paste inside that is way too sweet and way too heavy for the extremely light pastries. (don't get me wrong, i love nutella, but it has no place in my breakfast of slightly sweet, lighter-than-air bread). these croissants will be characterized by a lighter colored chocolate, perhaps oozing from all sides. the coronetto cioccolato you want to eat will be displayed in the window or on/right near the ordering counter, and should have a touch of dark colored chocolate, a little coming out of each end. (many times, the pastries can be formed around a stick of chocolate. this is the jackpot.) i've had a delicious one of this style at le petit cafe (oddly french-named, although the bar's decor, pop music, and baristas are clearly italian). however, the winner i discovered this morning, at a bar/gastronomie about two blocks from my apartment. i had been excited to go to this place, as i'd seen the delicacies displayed in the front window and been told that the old man who ran the store was really lovely. interestingly enough, he'd seen me walking by each day and had taken to waving or calling out to me. so, as i knew i'd be heading up to school, i decided that today was the day.

immediatly upon my entereing he greeted me (ciao, bella- which is very informal and friendly, a good sign). i ordered a cappuccino e coronetto cioccolato. dark color, not too much filling, and the pleasantly surprising addition: the clear, orange-flavored glaze usually only found on coronetti naturale! chocolate + orange + cappuccino + ensuing discussion with delightful italian = jackpot. they have my service every day. he came around from his perch behind the payment counter and stood next to me while i enjoyed said deliciousness, asking me questions in italian. it was a bit challenging, but once he found out i was an american, things were easier as he spoke slower and injected english if i was unsure of the context. we talked about food, family, school, and his store (everything made in the back each day!) and established a friendship that i assured him would continue as i would come back "domani," or tomorrow. let's just say i can't wait for another morning!