thursday night- the best food experience in rome yet, and definitely one of the best of my life.
there is a restaurant called le fate (the fairy) located on my street, trastevere, about a ten-minute walk towards the center of the city. the place, although it boasts half-off between 6 and 8 pm as well as a menu in english, is very subtle and understated in it's outside decor- just a few tall, wooden tables for two. i had heard incredible things, as well as seen postcards at school advertising their 20 euro (!) three-course cooking classes. and upon finding out that the restaurant my roommates and i had planned on going to was closed thursday, we decided to backtrack and try something else.
the restaurant is one room only, with a kitchen and bathrooms straight to the back. the setup is eclectic and decorative, but not overwhelmingly so. this combined with the friendly service (our waitress was from michigan; she moved to italy after she visited the restaurant and fell in love with the incredibly handsome and ingenious chef. how romantic can you possibly get?) rendered the atmosphere just about perfect. (i do have to admit that the jack johnson and beyonce playing over the sound system was a bit weird.)
the dinner began by my reading aloud to my friends the story of "le fate," which was on the inside cover of the menu and basically told of a joyous, charismatic fairy who goes around the world spreading the message of love. after this, i browsed the menu as a whole, after which i died and went to some taoist version of heaven in which the clouds are constituted of e.e. cummings poems and risotto, wine, and gelato are had in abundance with friends and family. i could tell immediately by the creativity and specialized dishes that this was a very, very special thing. my first order was the "le fate spritz," which was an aperetif with flavors of apple and lemon. it was light, refreshing, and perfectly sweet and bitter at the same time, and was an amber color, which led me to believe that it was perhaps dominated by a rum or whiskey-like alcohol. a perfect introduction. another favorite before-dinner drink was melissa's "french connection," which was basically a sweeter, more perfect version of a manhattan. glorious.
next, the bread and appetizers. the bread (which in italy never comes with butter and sometimes comes without oil as well- very different from the american assumption) was pillowy and moist, with a dark, fantastic crust and a touch of yeasty flavor. we also enjoyed an assortment of salami (some spicy, all salty, meaty and delicious) and a le fate specialty call "love and laziness." this consisted of mixed vegetables slightly cooked with a very light oil and basil. perfection. one of the incredible things about this chef is that is he lets the food speak for itself. it was as if he knew just the right amount of oil and spice needed to bring out the delicious, natural sweetness of the eggplant, onions,carrots, and zuchinni. wonderful for summer.
following this, we enjoyed a frascati wine (native to the region, like almost all of the wines served here) that was slightly tangy and very refreshing. as the bottle was passed around and we enjoyed each other's company and conversation (my laugh was definitely feeling free by this point.) and then, the bombshell was dropped: risotto with fresh blueberries, mushrooms, and pecorino. at this point i died a second time. it was hearty and warm, and i found myself in awe of this lovely man's ability to recognize that blueberries and mushrooms are THE perfect combination. the sweetness exploded in my mouth h so appropriately, and then followed up by a rich, smoky, subtle mushroom blanket. this was shared along with potatoes with "magic oil," which is indeed the perfect way to describe the dish. tastes of lemon, rosemary, parsley, and tiny pink peppercorns preceded that of the fruity oil, which led to the slight crust of the sliced potatoes, which led to the smooth, delicious inner meat. i could not have been happier.
and then, there was lamb. the special for the evening (a good way to order anywhere in this area,) which was accompanied by tiny and delicate roasted potatoes. this too was unbelievably flavorful. at first perfectly salty and oily, and then rich, deep, dark, and utterly fulfilling once through the light caramelization. this meat-and-starch heaven was contrasted with a small salad of spicy, peppery arugula and the sweetest cucumber i've ever had.
although we'd had enough food, we wanted to have a full experience, and so chose to do after-dinner drinks- "digestivo" in italian culture. these are usually various "amari," or bitters, to aid in the digestive process. le fate made their own varieties of these, combining incredible flavors to perfectly round out our gorgeous meal. i tried one infused with cinnamon and bay leaves- it was fragrant, spicy, and thick and i have since been haunted by its perfection. melissa tried a "montaccio," a grappa infused with fresh mint, which was incredibly present and refreshing.
the evening ended with the chef treating us to buttery, light shortbread cookies filled with nutella and dusted with powdered sugar, after which he came over to our table as we discussed scheduling a cooking class with him. although his schedule and ours did not coincide, he offered to teach us on sunday- his only day off- as long as he could sleep in. so, this sunday, i will have the opportunity to be with my four closest school friends in a tiny italian kitchen cooking an authentic, three-course meal. pictures, recipes, and more notes to you will surely evolve.
i love you all! make some pasta and share it with your fellow man.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
jewelry stands and gelato in the park: my new italian friends.
every once in awhile, there will be a day which will be unlike any other, and after which subsequent days will be compared to. this is a story of one of those days.
i awoke early on monday, anxious to spend my morning with the city i had missed deeply over the weekend. i stopped at bar marado to enjoy a (free) breakfast, which consisted of a cappuccino and cornetto miele (a pastry with a heavenly, soft center of honeyed-bread). i also had along with me a dress and a cardigan, as adolfo (the owner and my favorite old italian man thus far) had told me that in the morning, i could meet his friend daniella, who came for coffee and also was a tailor. from what i deciphered, she would be happy to repair any and everyone’s clothing. unfortunately, i had missed her, and went on my way to the campo di fiori for what would hopefully be a glorious shopping experience.
although the morning turned out to be completely different from what i was expecting, it led to the first part of this story of the day. upon entering the market, i noted a table on the right with beautiful, ornate silver and beaded jewelry. the gift possibilities for friends and family were becoming overwhelming, but as i did not see anyone around, i started onward. i would not reach the center of the market for another hour and a half, however, as an old man (they love me here, apparently) who appeared to be the owner of the jewelry stopped me and led me back to his treasures. he was incredibly friendly and took the time to show me how each and every piece worked and what kind of people they would be good for. i chose a few pieces and he took them behind the table to make them ready for purchase. he sat down in his chair and presented a piece of thick metal around which he put the rings in order to smooth them out. as he nonchalantly worked on this, he motioned for me to sit down on the crate next to him. it was here that i would establish perhaps the best relationship with a local yet. the two of us conversed for over an hour as he made me not one but two extra rings with beads of my choosing, for free. and although his italian was rapid and mine broken (with addition of many head nods and gestures), we learned a lot about each other and i received some beautiful lectures on life. over and over again, he emphasized the importance of feeling in the heart “like a bambino,” or child. he had a wonderful time pointing out those who had a good quality and energy of “vita,” or life, and those who were not humble and were “egoists.” he talked about the animals and the sky, and how important it was to be aware of one’s surroundings and be content with nature. i felt as if i was meant to be in that specific place at that time- the message he was giving me was so pure, so beautiful, and so necessary. what was even more poignant, however, was that just when he happened to be talking about the animals and their place in the world, we discovered a large black beetle crawling on my arm. (this was right around the time that he was fitting me for my first ring.) he was ecstatic that i had found “tu amico magico,” or your magic friend. he then procured a few turquoise beads in the shape of beetles and compared the real to the artistic, emphasizing how important it was to treat him as a thing of beauty. a young man came up to us and pointed to it, warning me that i had something crawling on me. as if to poetically juxtapose the two differing attitudes, the old man shooed him away and instructed me to place him in a plant by a restaurant across the way.
after this, we talked about what we did in our lives, and upon finding out that i was a “studenta o cinema, teatro, e canto,” he brought me close and asked me to sing for him. “my funny valentine” and the opening of “someone to watch over me” were very pleasing to him, and he then started on my second ring. he showed me pictures of some of his customers over the years (long ago he had long, black, seventies-style hair!) and soon i had the pleasure of meeting a couple from the southern u.s. who had met him two years previous. the woman was wearing a bracelet he made, and he constructed a new clasp for her on the spot. our conversation continued, this time turning to food. when he learned of my aversion to tomatoes, he made sure to dictate to me a tomato pasta that would surely be beneficial to my health, and stressed the importance of “naturale” vs. “chemica” treatments for my stomach problems. after about and hour and a half had passed, i regretfully told him that i had to go to school, and he made sure before i left that i knew which days he would be at the market. forty euros and five pieces of handmade jewelry later, i was on my way, accompanied by fior di latte gelato (light, slightly sweet, delicious.)
school. not important to the story.
after school, i went to adolfo’s bar to try and catch the tailor, as i had understood that she would be there between five and six. when i arrived, he instructed me to order a drink. as i stood at the counter tasting my first campari & soda (think jagermeister meets a vodka tonic...not so great), he came up to the counter, complete with a vest, a bag, and a set of keys.
“andiamo?”
for those of you who may not know, “andiamo” means “let’s go.” i realized suddenly that he planned on DRIVIng me to the tailor shop. i had a sudden reaction that i should not get in a vehicle with someone i had know for only a week who spoke a different language from me, but a second, stronger thought won out: i would experience rome rush-hour traffic AND get my dress fixed! why not?! (mothers out there, breath, it’ll be fine...) so off we went in his car (of which he has five....one of them a jaguar...remember when i said working in a caffe or ristorante was a good career?) and drove through the traffic (not as scary as you might think) to a suburb that was clean, green, and spacious. very unlike the city center. after a long, broken conversation in mostly italian/partial english, we arrived at the tailor’s, where we explained to them what i needed done. as i reached for my money, adolfo pulled out his and PAID for my clothes to be fixed (30 euro- not cheap.) i was astounded, but he smiled and made sure the workers knew that i was covered when i went to pick them up. after this bewildering excursion, we drove back in the direction of the city, during which he pointed out all the important buildings and parks. i saw up-close the modern parliament buildings (very different from the forum but with an italian flair...still lots of arches), rivers that had been manually constructed, and a new area where a metro station was being worked on. as we drove around a gorgeous, modern-looking park, adolfo mentioned that it’s gelateria had the bEST ice cream. five minutes later, we were entering through the crowded parlour’s doors and up to the counter to order. he insisted that i get a large (think coldstone), to which i protested vehemently. however, like a true italian, he did not take no for an answer, and ordered two large gelatos. we then went to the counter to pick our flavors (in gorgeous abundance!) and decided on cioccolato, which looked completely divine. he insisted i choose another (caramel- decidedly too sweet) and then ANOTHER (pignoli, or pine nut- inCREDIBLE- who knew). we sat in the park, eating gelato and watching the children play. when this was finished, he asked if i wanted to go walking or go home, to which i replied in half italian/half english: “i haven’t washed my clothes in weeks and we have six girls fighting over the machine!” he laughed and we got back into the car. after another mini-tour and some busy roads, he parked in front of the bar and i thanked him profusely as we exchanged hugs and kisses on the cheek. “arrivederci domani!” i said, and went on my way, astounded from my day of good fortune random experiences.
and so i recommend: when you travel overseas, make friends. despite the language barrier, it turns out that they can enrich your life and challenge you as if they were your own from home.
i have no other words.
i awoke early on monday, anxious to spend my morning with the city i had missed deeply over the weekend. i stopped at bar marado to enjoy a (free) breakfast, which consisted of a cappuccino and cornetto miele (a pastry with a heavenly, soft center of honeyed-bread). i also had along with me a dress and a cardigan, as adolfo (the owner and my favorite old italian man thus far) had told me that in the morning, i could meet his friend daniella, who came for coffee and also was a tailor. from what i deciphered, she would be happy to repair any and everyone’s clothing. unfortunately, i had missed her, and went on my way to the campo di fiori for what would hopefully be a glorious shopping experience.
although the morning turned out to be completely different from what i was expecting, it led to the first part of this story of the day. upon entering the market, i noted a table on the right with beautiful, ornate silver and beaded jewelry. the gift possibilities for friends and family were becoming overwhelming, but as i did not see anyone around, i started onward. i would not reach the center of the market for another hour and a half, however, as an old man (they love me here, apparently) who appeared to be the owner of the jewelry stopped me and led me back to his treasures. he was incredibly friendly and took the time to show me how each and every piece worked and what kind of people they would be good for. i chose a few pieces and he took them behind the table to make them ready for purchase. he sat down in his chair and presented a piece of thick metal around which he put the rings in order to smooth them out. as he nonchalantly worked on this, he motioned for me to sit down on the crate next to him. it was here that i would establish perhaps the best relationship with a local yet. the two of us conversed for over an hour as he made me not one but two extra rings with beads of my choosing, for free. and although his italian was rapid and mine broken (with addition of many head nods and gestures), we learned a lot about each other and i received some beautiful lectures on life. over and over again, he emphasized the importance of feeling in the heart “like a bambino,” or child. he had a wonderful time pointing out those who had a good quality and energy of “vita,” or life, and those who were not humble and were “egoists.” he talked about the animals and the sky, and how important it was to be aware of one’s surroundings and be content with nature. i felt as if i was meant to be in that specific place at that time- the message he was giving me was so pure, so beautiful, and so necessary. what was even more poignant, however, was that just when he happened to be talking about the animals and their place in the world, we discovered a large black beetle crawling on my arm. (this was right around the time that he was fitting me for my first ring.) he was ecstatic that i had found “tu amico magico,” or your magic friend. he then procured a few turquoise beads in the shape of beetles and compared the real to the artistic, emphasizing how important it was to treat him as a thing of beauty. a young man came up to us and pointed to it, warning me that i had something crawling on me. as if to poetically juxtapose the two differing attitudes, the old man shooed him away and instructed me to place him in a plant by a restaurant across the way.
after this, we talked about what we did in our lives, and upon finding out that i was a “studenta o cinema, teatro, e canto,” he brought me close and asked me to sing for him. “my funny valentine” and the opening of “someone to watch over me” were very pleasing to him, and he then started on my second ring. he showed me pictures of some of his customers over the years (long ago he had long, black, seventies-style hair!) and soon i had the pleasure of meeting a couple from the southern u.s. who had met him two years previous. the woman was wearing a bracelet he made, and he constructed a new clasp for her on the spot. our conversation continued, this time turning to food. when he learned of my aversion to tomatoes, he made sure to dictate to me a tomato pasta that would surely be beneficial to my health, and stressed the importance of “naturale” vs. “chemica” treatments for my stomach problems. after about and hour and a half had passed, i regretfully told him that i had to go to school, and he made sure before i left that i knew which days he would be at the market. forty euros and five pieces of handmade jewelry later, i was on my way, accompanied by fior di latte gelato (light, slightly sweet, delicious.)
school. not important to the story.
after school, i went to adolfo’s bar to try and catch the tailor, as i had understood that she would be there between five and six. when i arrived, he instructed me to order a drink. as i stood at the counter tasting my first campari & soda (think jagermeister meets a vodka tonic...not so great), he came up to the counter, complete with a vest, a bag, and a set of keys.
“andiamo?”
for those of you who may not know, “andiamo” means “let’s go.” i realized suddenly that he planned on DRIVIng me to the tailor shop. i had a sudden reaction that i should not get in a vehicle with someone i had know for only a week who spoke a different language from me, but a second, stronger thought won out: i would experience rome rush-hour traffic AND get my dress fixed! why not?! (mothers out there, breath, it’ll be fine...) so off we went in his car (of which he has five....one of them a jaguar...remember when i said working in a caffe or ristorante was a good career?) and drove through the traffic (not as scary as you might think) to a suburb that was clean, green, and spacious. very unlike the city center. after a long, broken conversation in mostly italian/partial english, we arrived at the tailor’s, where we explained to them what i needed done. as i reached for my money, adolfo pulled out his and PAID for my clothes to be fixed (30 euro- not cheap.) i was astounded, but he smiled and made sure the workers knew that i was covered when i went to pick them up. after this bewildering excursion, we drove back in the direction of the city, during which he pointed out all the important buildings and parks. i saw up-close the modern parliament buildings (very different from the forum but with an italian flair...still lots of arches), rivers that had been manually constructed, and a new area where a metro station was being worked on. as we drove around a gorgeous, modern-looking park, adolfo mentioned that it’s gelateria had the bEST ice cream. five minutes later, we were entering through the crowded parlour’s doors and up to the counter to order. he insisted that i get a large (think coldstone), to which i protested vehemently. however, like a true italian, he did not take no for an answer, and ordered two large gelatos. we then went to the counter to pick our flavors (in gorgeous abundance!) and decided on cioccolato, which looked completely divine. he insisted i choose another (caramel- decidedly too sweet) and then ANOTHER (pignoli, or pine nut- inCREDIBLE- who knew). we sat in the park, eating gelato and watching the children play. when this was finished, he asked if i wanted to go walking or go home, to which i replied in half italian/half english: “i haven’t washed my clothes in weeks and we have six girls fighting over the machine!” he laughed and we got back into the car. after another mini-tour and some busy roads, he parked in front of the bar and i thanked him profusely as we exchanged hugs and kisses on the cheek. “arrivederci domani!” i said, and went on my way, astounded from my day of good fortune random experiences.
and so i recommend: when you travel overseas, make friends. despite the language barrier, it turns out that they can enrich your life and challenge you as if they were your own from home.
i have no other words.
northern italy: the mountains, the rain, and the wc.
this weekend found me traveling up through northern italy, my destination being the small town of paderno, which is nestled in the dolomites of the veneto region (famous for its prosecco!) i was mildly nervous for my first solo trip across italy, although my roommates assured me that it would be easy and relaxing. i, of course, arrived earlier than necessary, and found upon entering the station that this was not necessary. some passengers even buy their tickets moments before their train departs, and are not any worse off than the others, as the platform numbers can and do change with minutes to spare. i was scheduled to take three different trains, one of which was a eurostar. these are roomy, comfortable trains with separate cars that include bars (!) the ride was moderately uneventful (i read about vittorio desica's contribution to italian neorealism) until, after tunneling through a dark undergroud passage, we shot out into the MIDDLE OF THE ALPs. these enormous, foreboding beauties were unlike anything i have seen before, with the exception of a dream i once had in which i was in a valley surrounded by giant jerusalem artichokes (like mountains, no?) the mountains (this particular stretch called the dolomites) held my awe-inspired attention for the rest of the trip.
i arrived in bassano del grappa (the area home of the famed digestivo...yes i did try it...not sure what i think yet, but definitely better than vodka.) and met with miranda, lily, and allison. we visited a gelateria (way too sweet this time...crema is not my kind of flavor) , a mod, designer lamp shop, and a bar to procure for miranda some hot chocolate. it was here that i experienced my first northern italian bathroom, which consists of a ceramic hole in the floor. in rome, i had experienced pull-chain toilets, sinks operated by seemingly invisible pedals, and lack of soap, but this i was not prepared for. after this initial shock, i came to accept that this was all i was going to get when it came to bathroom provisions. after this unexpected piece of education, i joined miranda, lily, and allison outside, where we were affronted by the first of several torrential downpours that would visit over the weekend. we bolted through the streets, finally arriving at a chinese restaurant (!) , soaking and cold. after some confusion with owners about paying the check, we braved the forces once again to make it to the bus to crespano with seconds to spare. once in crespano, we were picked up by a gorgeous italian woman and her two children, who gave us a ride to nearby paderno on account of the rain.
the next morning, we had breakfast at the apartment where one of miranda's professors was staying. it was here that i tried my first chestnut spread (!) , enjoyed blood-orange mimosas and incredible eggs with asiago miranda-style (!) , and enjoyed the heavenly lavender growing in the backyard (!!) after visiting the bigger of the town's two tabacchi's (prosecco for 3 euro...could it get any better?) , i sat in on a masterclass of opera students that miranda studies alongside. the glorious sounds of puccini and some french composer whose name escapes me now were underscored by another downpour outside. it couldn't have been more romantic. once the storm cleared, we took on the challenge of taking a walk alongside the mountain to find castle ruins that were apparently in the area. although we never came across them, we did find ourself among grazing animals, including cows and billy goats, some of which were the size of kittens. as we climbed higher, the saturated colors and intoxicating smells brought by the rain left me feeling relaxed and happy. after a dinner of potato, sausage, and parmesan pizza, i slipped into my second heavy sleep of the weekend.
the next morning, we awoke to prepare to unleash ourselves on the antique market at marositca, which is held every first sunday of the month. after running, once again, to barely catch our bus, we found ourselves in the piazza castello, which, as the name suggests, is settled underneath a castle atop a hill. my eyes gazed upon bags, sunglasses, and countless pieces that will surely furnish some lucky italian's apartment. my wallet could not be contained, however, and i walked away with a fabulous english carpetbag, venetian glass beads, and a necklace from africa. (the man who sold me the necklace was very excited to chat with us about obama after finding out that we were american. this attitude is rampant all over italy...how exciting!) after a FANTASTIC meal of risotto al dente with asparagus accompanied by an incredible sicilian white wine, we ventured to the bus stop. the bus, however, had apparently taken a siesta, along with its driver. an hour later (such is life...) we departed for bassano, where i jumped on a train with minutes to spare, in the true european fashion.
as i reminisced about the weekend, i found myself anxiously awaiting my return to rome. i found that despite the lovely, relaxing weekend filled with wonderful company, awe-inspiring nature walks, and vending-machine hot chocolate (you've gOT to try it...italy has everything!) , i was seriously missing rome. and as i stepped out onto the busy cobblestone streets, i felt an invigorating, warm feeling- the kind you get when you are re-acquainted with someone lovely you haven't seen in a very long while.
i arrived in bassano del grappa (the area home of the famed digestivo...yes i did try it...not sure what i think yet, but definitely better than vodka.) and met with miranda, lily, and allison. we visited a gelateria (way too sweet this time...crema is not my kind of flavor) , a mod, designer lamp shop, and a bar to procure for miranda some hot chocolate. it was here that i experienced my first northern italian bathroom, which consists of a ceramic hole in the floor. in rome, i had experienced pull-chain toilets, sinks operated by seemingly invisible pedals, and lack of soap, but this i was not prepared for. after this initial shock, i came to accept that this was all i was going to get when it came to bathroom provisions. after this unexpected piece of education, i joined miranda, lily, and allison outside, where we were affronted by the first of several torrential downpours that would visit over the weekend. we bolted through the streets, finally arriving at a chinese restaurant (!) , soaking and cold. after some confusion with owners about paying the check, we braved the forces once again to make it to the bus to crespano with seconds to spare. once in crespano, we were picked up by a gorgeous italian woman and her two children, who gave us a ride to nearby paderno on account of the rain.
the next morning, we had breakfast at the apartment where one of miranda's professors was staying. it was here that i tried my first chestnut spread (!) , enjoyed blood-orange mimosas and incredible eggs with asiago miranda-style (!) , and enjoyed the heavenly lavender growing in the backyard (!!) after visiting the bigger of the town's two tabacchi's (prosecco for 3 euro...could it get any better?) , i sat in on a masterclass of opera students that miranda studies alongside. the glorious sounds of puccini and some french composer whose name escapes me now were underscored by another downpour outside. it couldn't have been more romantic. once the storm cleared, we took on the challenge of taking a walk alongside the mountain to find castle ruins that were apparently in the area. although we never came across them, we did find ourself among grazing animals, including cows and billy goats, some of which were the size of kittens. as we climbed higher, the saturated colors and intoxicating smells brought by the rain left me feeling relaxed and happy. after a dinner of potato, sausage, and parmesan pizza, i slipped into my second heavy sleep of the weekend.
the next morning, we awoke to prepare to unleash ourselves on the antique market at marositca, which is held every first sunday of the month. after running, once again, to barely catch our bus, we found ourselves in the piazza castello, which, as the name suggests, is settled underneath a castle atop a hill. my eyes gazed upon bags, sunglasses, and countless pieces that will surely furnish some lucky italian's apartment. my wallet could not be contained, however, and i walked away with a fabulous english carpetbag, venetian glass beads, and a necklace from africa. (the man who sold me the necklace was very excited to chat with us about obama after finding out that we were american. this attitude is rampant all over italy...how exciting!) after a FANTASTIC meal of risotto al dente with asparagus accompanied by an incredible sicilian white wine, we ventured to the bus stop. the bus, however, had apparently taken a siesta, along with its driver. an hour later (such is life...) we departed for bassano, where i jumped on a train with minutes to spare, in the true european fashion.
as i reminisced about the weekend, i found myself anxiously awaiting my return to rome. i found that despite the lovely, relaxing weekend filled with wonderful company, awe-inspiring nature walks, and vending-machine hot chocolate (you've gOT to try it...italy has everything!) , i was seriously missing rome. and as i stepped out onto the busy cobblestone streets, i felt an invigorating, warm feeling- the kind you get when you are re-acquainted with someone lovely you haven't seen in a very long while.
the wonderful world of food (and the relationships they procure)
i have finally consumed enough gelato and cornetti (croissants) to be able to write extensively on the sweets culture here, which is wonderful (although it did take me an entire week...). first: gelato, or italian ice cream. many of these places are advertised as gelaterias and are very consentrated around tourist areas. when you order (always uno poco gelato...very rich and sweet!) it will usually cost between 1,50 and 2 euro and they will try to put it in a cone, so gelato in a cup must be specified. if they come from a gelateria, the consistecy will vary but is most definitely a lot more icy than american ice cream. my favorite one had a mix of creamy and icy and came from a place about half way between my apartment and the tiber river (a 10 minute or so walk). it was baci flavored, after the perugina "baci" or kiss. it's the original chocolate kiss, the one with a hazelnut on top. however, the real winner came from a cremeria near the pantheon, which was more like american ice cream (although 100% full fat!) i ordered noccioli, or hazelnute, and it was the thickest, most delicious ice cream i have ever had! other flavors tried are tiramisu and coffee (the iciest but great flavor). however, much is left to conquer as most gelaterias have an enormous selection, including things like tartuffo (chocolate + whiskey), several different fruity flavors, and 3-5 different combinations of hazelnut & chocolate (bacio, nutella, etc.) pistachio also looks enticing, as does any of the chocolate flavors- they are almost black in color. luckily, i am here for a month and as the small sizes are really small (coldstone will most definitely scare me when i return...but i'm sure after five minutes of being in the store i'll get over it), i have no problem doing the research it takes to be able to inform you all of the delightful tastes and textures.
now, the cornetto, or croissant. they all look relatively the same (what you would think a basic croissant looks like), and some are covered in powdered sugar (boo) or an orange-flavored glaze (woo!) the basic kinds are cioccolato (beware...more to come), crema (usually an almond flavor) and naturale (but don't think this one isn't sweet as well- these are the ones with the glazes). as far as cioccolato goes, the key to deliciousness is the color. don't walk into any old bar/pasticierria and ask for one if you haven't seen it displayed yet. some that i've tasted have had a thick, nutella-like paste inside that is way too sweet and way too heavy for the extremely light pastries. (don't get me wrong, i love nutella, but it has no place in my breakfast of slightly sweet, lighter-than-air bread). these croissants will be characterized by a lighter colored chocolate, perhaps oozing from all sides. the coronetto cioccolato you want to eat will be displayed in the window or on/right near the ordering counter, and should have a touch of dark colored chocolate, a little coming out of each end. (many times, the pastries can be formed around a stick of chocolate. this is the jackpot.) i've had a delicious one of this style at le petit cafe (oddly french-named, although the bar's decor, pop music, and baristas are clearly italian). however, the winner i discovered this morning, at a bar/gastronomie about two blocks from my apartment. i had been excited to go to this place, as i'd seen the delicacies displayed in the front window and been told that the old man who ran the store was really lovely. interestingly enough, he'd seen me walking by each day and had taken to waving or calling out to me. so, as i knew i'd be heading up to school, i decided that today was the day.
immediatly upon my entereing he greeted me (ciao, bella- which is very informal and friendly, a good sign). i ordered a cappuccino e coronetto cioccolato. dark color, not too much filling, and the pleasantly surprising addition: the clear, orange-flavored glaze usually only found on coronetti naturale! chocolate + orange + cappuccino + ensuing discussion with delightful italian = jackpot. they have my service every day. he came around from his perch behind the payment counter and stood next to me while i enjoyed said deliciousness, asking me questions in italian. it was a bit challenging, but once he found out i was an american, things were easier as he spoke slower and injected english if i was unsure of the context. we talked about food, family, school, and his store (everything made in the back each day!) and established a friendship that i assured him would continue as i would come back "domani," or tomorrow. let's just say i can't wait for another morning!
now, the cornetto, or croissant. they all look relatively the same (what you would think a basic croissant looks like), and some are covered in powdered sugar (boo) or an orange-flavored glaze (woo!) the basic kinds are cioccolato (beware...more to come), crema (usually an almond flavor) and naturale (but don't think this one isn't sweet as well- these are the ones with the glazes). as far as cioccolato goes, the key to deliciousness is the color. don't walk into any old bar/pasticierria and ask for one if you haven't seen it displayed yet. some that i've tasted have had a thick, nutella-like paste inside that is way too sweet and way too heavy for the extremely light pastries. (don't get me wrong, i love nutella, but it has no place in my breakfast of slightly sweet, lighter-than-air bread). these croissants will be characterized by a lighter colored chocolate, perhaps oozing from all sides. the coronetto cioccolato you want to eat will be displayed in the window or on/right near the ordering counter, and should have a touch of dark colored chocolate, a little coming out of each end. (many times, the pastries can be formed around a stick of chocolate. this is the jackpot.) i've had a delicious one of this style at le petit cafe (oddly french-named, although the bar's decor, pop music, and baristas are clearly italian). however, the winner i discovered this morning, at a bar/gastronomie about two blocks from my apartment. i had been excited to go to this place, as i'd seen the delicacies displayed in the front window and been told that the old man who ran the store was really lovely. interestingly enough, he'd seen me walking by each day and had taken to waving or calling out to me. so, as i knew i'd be heading up to school, i decided that today was the day.
immediatly upon my entereing he greeted me (ciao, bella- which is very informal and friendly, a good sign). i ordered a cappuccino e coronetto cioccolato. dark color, not too much filling, and the pleasantly surprising addition: the clear, orange-flavored glaze usually only found on coronetti naturale! chocolate + orange + cappuccino + ensuing discussion with delightful italian = jackpot. they have my service every day. he came around from his perch behind the payment counter and stood next to me while i enjoyed said deliciousness, asking me questions in italian. it was a bit challenging, but once he found out i was an american, things were easier as he spoke slower and injected english if i was unsure of the context. we talked about food, family, school, and his store (everything made in the back each day!) and established a friendship that i assured him would continue as i would come back "domani," or tomorrow. let's just say i can't wait for another morning!
greetings from italy...first impressions.
rome is giant and crowded and fast and dirty. car horns, motorcycles zipping by, lack of patience. people live in apartments that all have patios decked out with flowers, herbs, and other greenery. there is so much vegetation everywhere, it's almost tropical. Unlike @ starbucks, the line is not very clearly delineated and you have to push through to get a coffee. they all talk @ me very fast and say "ciao bella." i froze when attempting to order my first panini and just blurted out "sorry!" , after which the barista spoke to me in english. i tipped well to make up for my lack of culture. this is hard! hA. there is a flea market behind my building every weekend, and i am a ten minute walk from the historical center of the city, about twenty minutes from school. the apartment is elderly and marble. did you know in italy they have a certain amount of electricity that each apartment can use, and once you go over it simply shuts off?! i think it's brilliant...even better than cap & trade! however, ours is on some different type of system (there are 6 girls,) so ours won't just cut out if we use a bit much. it's all quite fascinating, albeit intimidating...but regardless, i''m here and we'll see how i do!
to you from rome!
i am in the computer lab @ my school...all of the rooms are small and quaint. previous to coming here i signed up for field trips for a weekend in tuscany (including wine tasting!) , a trip to the vatican to be in the papal audience, and a day in frascati, a small town outside rome that has a FASHION OUTLET. also planning a trip to orvieto with myself to eat @ the restaurants my father did and visit the place where i spent my first night in rome (sleeping in a dresser drawer, of course.)
last night the manchester united-barcelona game was held here, so there were 100,000 extra people in the city...i went to the pantheon and in the piazza there, barcelona fans started chanting their "theme song," resulting in echoing voices throughout the entire place. incredible, so much energy. yesterday was also monumental as i tasted my first gelato- noccioli, or hazelnut- and my first rabbit. the gelato was a little more my taste, but the rabbit was good too. they give you all parts of the animal because, according to my friend monica, "good rabbits are very small." the leg was the best part, tender and rich. it was served with cippolini-little white onions. oh and the ciocollato croissant (pane dolci in italian i think?) was divine. the pastries are incredibly light.
i have never sweat so much in my life, and my feet ache from the walking all day on the cobblestone streets, but it's incredibly worth it. the pantheon and the giant white monument...i forget it's name...were my sights for yesterday. the view from the top is of the forum and the back of the colosseum...for another day! seeing these incredible pieces of architechture is unreal. the history is almost tangible, certainly visible....i recommend a trip to rome for all.
my first class in an hour...post-warI italian cinema...ciao! love you all!
last night the manchester united-barcelona game was held here, so there were 100,000 extra people in the city...i went to the pantheon and in the piazza there, barcelona fans started chanting their "theme song," resulting in echoing voices throughout the entire place. incredible, so much energy. yesterday was also monumental as i tasted my first gelato- noccioli, or hazelnut- and my first rabbit. the gelato was a little more my taste, but the rabbit was good too. they give you all parts of the animal because, according to my friend monica, "good rabbits are very small." the leg was the best part, tender and rich. it was served with cippolini-little white onions. oh and the ciocollato croissant (pane dolci in italian i think?) was divine. the pastries are incredibly light.
i have never sweat so much in my life, and my feet ache from the walking all day on the cobblestone streets, but it's incredibly worth it. the pantheon and the giant white monument...i forget it's name...were my sights for yesterday. the view from the top is of the forum and the back of the colosseum...for another day! seeing these incredible pieces of architechture is unreal. the history is almost tangible, certainly visible....i recommend a trip to rome for all.
my first class in an hour...post-warI italian cinema...ciao! love you all!
exhileration + frustration = rome.
shall we start with exhileration first? my housemate monica, who is fascinating and laid back and wonderful, wandered into the jewish ghetto, which is sort of along the tiber river and not too far from out apartment. four of us decided to explore it for dinner possibilities. it's one of those places where you feel like you're in the middle of nowhere, there's no food around, and suddenly: !!! very exiting. gold mines of food (including traveling violinists!) on small, winding streets. we ate at il giardino romano. the waiter was very friendly and brought us all the way to the back of the restaurant, in which was a small room (3 or four tables) with no ceiling. it was as if we were eating in a glorified, crumbling, painted & decorated chimney. we ate mussels and clams, blackened radicchio, carbonara (bright yellow from the yolks, the bacon unbelievable) , roasted lamb & potatoes (monica's dish- the winner) , some sort of smoked salmon with a spicy green, and saltimbocca (veal + proscuitto + butter + sage). we drank very dry prosecco and a bottle of the most incredible, rich, full wine called primitivo, which is a certain way of preparing the grapes. the waiter encouraged us to only speak italian (HARD) and was extremely helpful in getting us on the right track. patient and kind and attentive (rare for rome waiters.) he scolded me for having a phrase book and cracked jokes with all of us. @ the end of the meal, he was shocked we were leaving in under two hours, so gave us free dessert (berry tirimisu of sorts) so we would stay longer. when he found out we'd only been in rome three days, he was impressed...so...success! it was the best night so far.
and...frustration! most of the american students here have never read anything about italy, make no effort to speak italian in shops or with the locals, wear jeans and t-shirts, complain about their classes/teachers, and automatically revert to judgement about things they don't understand. and then wonder why they don't fit in, why the waiters are rude, and why people stare at them. the most bizarre part is that they have no clue that their actions may be the problem. it's ridiculous. the lack of respect that some students have is just as eye-opening as the roman culture.
as far as classes go, thank god for survey history, as frustrating as it was. my film class is 30 pages reading per night, tons of notes, and all about memorization of facts in order to understand the films we watch. sound familiar? today was obsession, directed by...let me look in my notes... luchino visconti. my italian culture/language class is half spoken dialogue in italian/botched italian, and half discussion about the culture: why this, why that, etc. both teachers are great- passionate about what they do, demanding but not too much. both were born in the us but have lived in rome with their families for years, and hearing them speak perfect english + american dialect followed by italian + roman dialect is fascinating. ah- another fun fact about italy- they could care less about copyright laws, and because i was not able to get hard copies of my books (one was out of print IN ITALY and had been for years, one ran out over the course of the day), the teachers arranged for them to be copied at a shop in rome. two books = 30 euro = 40 dollars. ruminate on that for a bit. there are other things that are very inexpensive as well- un caffe (a shot of espresso) is about 50 euro, or 65 cents, and a pastry is about 1 euro. if you want a cappucino or latte, the most you'll pay is 1 euro as well. breakfast is not considered a meal here in italy...more like an appetizer for the day, hence the low cost.
wow. many things. too many for one to read on a computer screen. i got carried away! hope all is well, much love, thanks for reading!
and...frustration! most of the american students here have never read anything about italy, make no effort to speak italian in shops or with the locals, wear jeans and t-shirts, complain about their classes/teachers, and automatically revert to judgement about things they don't understand. and then wonder why they don't fit in, why the waiters are rude, and why people stare at them. the most bizarre part is that they have no clue that their actions may be the problem. it's ridiculous. the lack of respect that some students have is just as eye-opening as the roman culture.
as far as classes go, thank god for survey history, as frustrating as it was. my film class is 30 pages reading per night, tons of notes, and all about memorization of facts in order to understand the films we watch. sound familiar? today was obsession, directed by...let me look in my notes... luchino visconti. my italian culture/language class is half spoken dialogue in italian/botched italian, and half discussion about the culture: why this, why that, etc. both teachers are great- passionate about what they do, demanding but not too much. both were born in the us but have lived in rome with their families for years, and hearing them speak perfect english + american dialect followed by italian + roman dialect is fascinating. ah- another fun fact about italy- they could care less about copyright laws, and because i was not able to get hard copies of my books (one was out of print IN ITALY and had been for years, one ran out over the course of the day), the teachers arranged for them to be copied at a shop in rome. two books = 30 euro = 40 dollars. ruminate on that for a bit. there are other things that are very inexpensive as well- un caffe (a shot of espresso) is about 50 euro, or 65 cents, and a pastry is about 1 euro. if you want a cappucino or latte, the most you'll pay is 1 euro as well. breakfast is not considered a meal here in italy...more like an appetizer for the day, hence the low cost.
wow. many things. too many for one to read on a computer screen. i got carried away! hope all is well, much love, thanks for reading!
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